Showing posts with label Dark. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dark. Show all posts

DARK RUMS
(and AGED RUMS)

Dark Rums are - surprise, surprise - darker than gold rums. They are generally produced in pot stills and are often aged longer (typically more than 5 years, and may be aged for decades), in heavily charred barrels. Like gold rums, some dark rums may also achieve their color through the addition of caramel. Dark rums are medium- to full-bodied and have more robust flavors, aromas and textures than light or gold rums. Black rums are the darkest variety of rum, usually from heavy molasses use and the addition of extra caramel and spices. They are primarily used as added flavor in tropical drinks and are the most common form of rum used in cooking.

Don Q Grand Añejo Conmemorativo

Category: Dark
Country: Puerto Rico
Aged: 3-12 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Extremely Limited
Price: $35 in San Juan, P.R. (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 17
Taste (0-35): 25
Smoothness (0-10): 5
Body (0-5): 4
Overall Quality (0-20): 16
Machete Grade (0-100): 72

Notes: After returning home from my Caribbean-hopping honeymoon last year, my wife selected two rums to set aside: Don Q Grand Añejo Conmemorativo for when she got pregnant and Havana Club Añejo 7 Años for celebrating the baby's birth. As far as I was concerned, this meant holding onto the unopened bottles for years. Less than a year later... man, was I wrong. Don Q Grand Añejo from Serralles distilleries comes beautifully presented in a classy, squared decanter with large glass-topped cork. The Conmemorativo is for commemorating the 500 year anniversary of Puerto Rico's discovery by Cristóbal Colón. The liquid is a dark gold with a light pour and somewhat quick legs. Underneath a strong smell of alcohol, the aroma is slightly sweet and spicy, and initially doesn't seem very aged. Given some time to breathe, brown sugar and an almost fruity molasses comes through with toasted oak. Alcohol makes the initial taste introduction, followed by molasses, some spiciness, and a faint fruit taste - not defined enough to pinpoint, but it's somewhere between banana and papaya. Quite dry and overly harsh but it doesn't linger. Overall, it's not very complex. A few merciful drops of water released some hidden sweetness, as well as tamed some of the heat, making the sipping a bit more palatable. The faint fruit flavor is now closer to banana. It's fairly enjoyable - and preferred - in simple cocktails; the tangy sweetness from splashed citrus juice is particularly appreciated. It may be too pricey and tough to find for what it is, but it's definitely a star attraction on the shelf and not a bad way to celebrate the anticipated arrival of my first-born.

Reviewed: March 2008

Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum

Category: Dark
Country: Bermuda
Aged: Minimum 10 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Extremely Limited
Price: $65-$90 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 23
Taste (0-35): 33
Smoothness (0-10): 8
Body (0-5): 5
Overall Quality (0-20): 20
Machete Grade (0-100): 94

Notes: Gosling's Family Reserve Old Rum is the Maltese Falcon of rums - classic, rare, and perhaps even worth a pricey expedition to find. For starters, the presentation could scarcely be more elegant: a champagne bottle of dark green frosted glass, individually hand numbered, a simple label encircled with a metal band, cork-topped and dipped in thick black wax (the black seal). Gosling's infinitely more attainable - in price and availability - Black Seal is a standard favorite of mine for mixed drinks, but Family Reserve takes the same robust blend to an entirely new plateau. Sturdy, leggy, and deep, dark brown - few rums present with such immediate authority. The aroma is semi-sweet caramel, vanilla, oak, and a soft hint of prunes and dried stone fruits. Tastes are ranging and complex: caramel, molasses, and smoke are first to present, followed interchangeably by baked apples, roasted nuts, vanilla, tobacco, wood, cherries, spice... A velvety yet deceiving smoothness wraps around your tongue and still finds a way to softly kick on its way down - as a proper rum should. Mixing this rum with anything whatsoever would be a travesty; even ice should be avoided as enjoying it warm in a snifter is the only way to appreciate this wonderfully nuanced experience.
Top Shelf Gold
Reviewed: January 2008

Website: http://www.goslingsrum.com/

Angostura 1919

Category: Dark
Country: Trinidad & Tobago
Aged: Minimum 8 Years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Limited
Price: $30-$40 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 25
Taste (0-35): 32
Smoothness (0-10): 9
Body (0-5): 4
Overall Quality (0-20): 20
Machete Grade (0-100): 95

Notes: Angostura 1919 from Trinidad is a rum that, for my tastes, is just shy of perfect. The elegant bottle with large cork only begins to prepare one for the quality inside. The radiant and clear golden amber hue has thin-to-medium legs. The rich bouquet is the highlight: toasted caramel, sweet molasses, ripe banana and vanilla. It's this combination of sweet aromas that makes 1919 ridiculously approachable. On the tongue it is not as sweet, but it is still excellent. Smooth and sweet, this is the crème brûlée of rums. Round, creamy, and warm, the tastes are classic and fairly uncomplicated: lightly burnt caramel, brown sugar, toffee, and vanilla with some smoky alcohol. Did I mention that it's smooth, smooth, smooth? While it could be a nice rum in a mixed drink - and Angostura themselves recommend using it in their Ninetini - it would be shameful to hide this quality behind other flavors. Sip Angostura 1919 neat, or with a single ice cube you deem worthy. This is a great rum that is mature beyond its eight years, and is as much a superb introduction to quality rum as it is a treat for connoisseurs.
Top Shelf Gold
Reviewed: November 2007

Website: http://www.angostura.com/

Mount Gay XO

Category: Dark
Country: Barbados
Aged: 12-17 Years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Almost Everywhere
Price: $30-$40 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 23
Taste (0-35): 32
Smoothness (0-10): 7
Body (0-5): 5
Overall Quality (0-20): 19
Machete Grade (0-100): 91

Notes: Mount Gay Distilleries has been producing rum for over 300 years. They know what they're doing. Mount Gay XO (Extra Old) is the distillery's finest product, a blend of rums aged 12 to 17 years. The bottle has wide rounded shoulders with a bubbled neck, similar to another Bajan product, Cockspur 12. The liquid is an elegantly lustered brown-amber with gripping legs. From the moment the cork is removed, the aroma is unmistakeably Bajan and heavily of bourbon. In fact, without aeration, the Bourbon mostly overpowers the other aromas; but given a few minutes, warm notes of oak, nuts and caramel are released. Tastes of brown sugar, spice, vanilla, oak, and, of course, bourbon. Lingering burnt wood and molasses. Very complex and robust. Bite is firm and intense, but pure - not from immaturity or improperly added spice. A small splash of cool, clean water evokes an additional taste of creamy bitter chocolate and maybe a very faint frutiness. Loses some of its initial character when on the rocks, but is a fair trade with the gain of slightly more approachability. Perfect for medium to heavy cigars. A later tasting was paired with a Romeo y Julieta Reserve Maduro Belicoso for a poweful combination that could very well leave the unsuspecting light-headed. Another tasting paired with an Avo LE #5 was also great. Mount Gay XO is a classic standard, the rum by which all others are judged and universally considered one of the best sipping rums on the market. I agree, and yet I especially enjoy Mount Gay XO in a classic Old Fashioned or mixed in extra potent Cuba Libres. Though I personally prefer my rum to have a little bit more sweetness (such as Matusalem or Zacapa), this is a rum of exceptional quality.
Top Shelf Silver
Reviewed: August 2007

Website: http://www.mountgay.com/

Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva

Category: Dark
Country: Dominican Republic
Aged: 15 years (blended)
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Limited
Price: $30-$38 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 23
Taste (0-35): 31
Smoothness (0-10): 7
Body (0-5): 5
Overall Quality (0-20): 18
Machete Grade (0-100): 89

Notes: Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva is made in the Solera style, which is a method of blending rums of different ages in stages until the desired age, smoothness, and taste is achieved (Ron Matuselm's website has a nice section detailing this blending process). The beautiful brown-amber pour is as classic as its bottle and label. Rich aromas of vanilla, smoky caramel, and alcohol. The first sip is a velvet-gloved jab to the tongue and teeth - piercing yet smooth all at the same time. And the first sip is merely gentle foreplay for the second and third. But once the soft bite from the alcohol and spice settles, the tastes are pure rum: wood, molasses, vanilla, smoke, caramel, alcohol. Further tastes reveal a bit of an earthy tone (leather?) followed by a subtle buttery fruitiness. Slightly dry with a medium-to-full body. Long, sultry finish. Neat or on the rocks, the sipping is superb and in the right setting, yearns to be shared with a cigar. This probably shouldn't be mixed, though a sacrilegious splash of coke with lime does taste near divine. Since its roots are in pre-castro Cuba and it is still made in the Cuban style (whatever that may be), this is considered to be as close as you can get to available Cuban rum until that rat bastard fidel kicks it. I feel its rich and somewhat buttery, sweet-but-not-too-sweet flavors are more signature Dominican than Cuban, though certainly this is as close to the real thing without being the real thing as I've yet had. Bottom line, Ron Matusalem Gran Reserva is among my personal favorites; it's classically delicious and a treat for special occasions. Highly recommended.
Top Shelf Gold
Reviewed: July 2007

Cockspur 12

Category: Dark
Country: Barbados
Aged: 12 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Very Limited
Price: $25-$35

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 23
Taste (0-35): 29
Smoothness (0-10): 6
Body (0-5): 5
Overall Quality (0-20): 16
Machete Grade (0-100): 84

Notes: The squat bottle, with its rounded shoulders and bubbled neck, is very similar to Mount Gay XO's bottle. Or is Mount Gay's similar to Cockspur's? Either way, it's a handsome look - and the small label lets the fierce, burnt-auburn color of the rum do all the selling. The plastic "cork" works as a good balance between the classiness of a true cork and the reliability of a screw cap. Poured, the color becomes more of a golden copper. Molasses, butterscotch, and bourbon whiskey dominate the nose. Aeration releases vanilla and oak along with an undertone of stone fruit. A very inviting and subtly complex bouquet. Features flavors of vanilla, caramel, brandy, and oak. Has a strong bite that seems to be sourced equally between alcohol and spices (nutmeg, allspice). There's also a honeyed, earthy aftertaste with a soft backdrop of what I can only identify as buttery marshmallow. Full bodied and intense yet it does smooth out slightly with time, particularly when a few drops of water are introduced and a couple of choice ice cubes are allowed to mingle. Even on the rocks, it's warm with a long, dry finish. Be warned, this rum is not for the weak: it can quickly go straight to ones head. I find it somewhat similar in aroma, flavor, and bite to another aged Bajan rum: Doorly's XO. In short, Cockspur 12 is a fine sipping rum that, despite some initial harshness, is a pleasure to enjoy slowly.

Reviewed: June 2007

Website: http://www.cockspurrum.com/

Gosling's Black Seal

Category: Dark
Country: Bermuda
Aged: 3-6 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof) - also available overproof
Availability: Almost Everywhere
Price: $16-$18 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 4
Aroma (0-25): 21
Taste (0-35): 25
Smoothness (0-10): 7
Body (0-5): 5
Overall Quality (0-20): 16
Machete Rating (0-100): 78

Notes: Have you ever chewed rum? If not, you've likely never tried Gosling's Black Seal. In the bottle, the liquid looks black as night, but poured it's more of a deep brown with red amber hue. On the nose there are tones of molasses, herbs, and bourbon. I love the aroma of Black Seal; it's subdued, creamy, and pleasant, particularly when compared side by side with the other black rum I reviewed recently, Bacardi Select. It's thickly textured and can be rolled around the tongue with slick, sticky viscocity. Classic rum tastes of caramel, sugarcane, charred oak, and vanilla. By itself it's bitter with a warm, medium bite and a bittersweet aftertaste. It can be enjoyed on the rocks, though I prefer it mixed with coke or pineapple juice or as a floater in a tropical drink. Above all, it's not a real Dark 'n' Stormy if it's not Gosling's Black Seal and Barritt's Ginger Beer - a creamy and delicious cocktail (though Bundaberg's ginger beer makes a great substitute for those who have a hard time finding Barritt's). It's also perfect in a Hurricane. Gosling's Black Seal is a versatile, quality rum at an accessible price worth keeping an eye out for as its archetypal yet unique rum qualities make it a favorite of many.
Best Buy
Reviewed: May 2007

Website: http://www.goslingsrum.com/

Pyrat XO Reserve

Category: Dark
Country: Anguilla
Aged: 15 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Almost Everywhere
Price: $28-$39 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 21
Taste (0-35): 33
Smoothness (0-10): 8
Body (0-5): 5
Overall Quality (0-20): 18
Machete Rating (0-100): 90

Notes: I am not alone in considering Pyrat XO among the ten or so best rums under $30 in the world. Its warm, alluring aroma has a unique but not overpowering touch of fruity and spicy sweetness. The peppery bite and bit of harshness on the back of the throat was a little unexpected, but it seemed to enhance the overall complex variety of flavors of molasses, citrus (orange), vanilla, and maybe anise. Has an interesting overtone of whiskey. A splash of coke and a twist of lime balance out the slight bite to make an unbelievable, seemingly orange-kissed Cuba Libre (make sure to keep the drink at least half rum). This is as solid as rums go, and at an average price of $32, it's an incredible value (I actually recently bought two bottles - which I might add are perfectly squat, individually numbered, hand-blown glass with a cork topper, ribbon, medallion, and in an window-front wooden lock box - for an unbelievable $20 each). Among my personal favorites that I know I'll always have in stock - accounting for taste, price, and availability - is Pyrat XO Reserve. Best Buy
Top Shelf Silver
Reviewed: May 2007

Bacardi Select

Category: Dark
Country: Puerto Rico
Aged: 2-4 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Everywhere
Price: $12-$15 (750 mL)

Appearance (0-5): 4
Aroma (0-25): 10
Taste (0-35): 12
Smoothness (0-10): 4
Body (0-5): 3
Overall Quality (0-20): 7
Machete Rating (0-100): 40

Notes: I had high hopes for Bacardi Select (also known as Bacardi Black, but not to be confused with the 6-year Bacardi Añejo). There were some moderately positive reviews online (mixed in with a number of mediocre reviews) and the bottle looked tempting on the shelves (especially for the discounted price of $9.99). Too bad I had to open it. Liquid is an attractive dark amber. It presents an overpowering aroma of sour fruit and varnish with hints of caramel, molasses and bitters. Sipping this neat is a mistake. Tasting notes of white pepper, sweat, and wood with the harsh, dry finish of cheap white rum. A second taste reveals an extremely faint bittersweet cane. Salty aftertaste. It may have some age, but it lacks maturity. Dropping ice cubes and a splash of water helps, though not much as it simply tones it down to an average young rum taste. But not all is disaster... cutting it with coke (not diet, so as to compensate for the missing sweetness) rounds out the rum a bit and brings the fruit and oak to the forefront. With ginger ale and a squeeze of lemon, it's OK. Adding it as a boat drink floater might be the best way to enjoy this rum as its bitter flavors and dryness make a relatively decent contrast to super-sweet mixes. Bacardi 8 and Bacardi 1873 Solera both blow Select out of the water. I think it aims to be Myers's [sic] Dark but it clearly comes up very short. Even finding it for $10 might not be worth it.

[Follow up: Do not mix this with pineapple juice as the combined taste might be worse than death.]

Reviewed: June 2007

Doorly's XO

Category: Dark
Country: Barbados
Aged: 10 years
Alcohol: 40% (80 proof)
Availability: Very Limited
Price: US$24 (750 mL) in Barbados

Appearance (0-5): 5
Aroma (0-25): 23
Taste (0-35): 28
Smoothness (0-10): 7
Body (0-5): 4
Overall Quality (0-20): 16
Machete Rating (0-100): 83

Notes: Doorly's XO is given a second maturation with oak barrels "already seasoned in the aging of fine Spanish Oloroso Sherry." It sounded to me that this bottle I happen to come across in Bridgeport, Barbados could be a true gem. After all, additional aging in sherry casks was a key component in the Bacardi 8 Millennium recipe that sold for over $3000 a bottle. Though it didn't meet my lofty expectations - especially at first - I still enjoyed it. It poured with a nice viscosity and has a beautiful amber color. Great smell of citrus, molasses, and the unmistakable aroma of underlying brandy (or I suppose, sherry). I had it on the rocks with a splash of club soda, and it was subtly sweet and clean but a bit harsh at first sip. Subsequent sips, though, did get better and better as the melting ice softened the bite. Definite flavors of ripened grape, nut and vanilla. Pairs well with a Maria Mancini EMS Robusto. It took some drinking (and another glass the next day) to truly appreciate it. Overall it's actually a fairly smooth, clean, sweet rum with a long, delicate finish that's not widely available. Though it works on the rocks, a small splash of water, coke or juice can really bring out and complement the full complexity of this rum. Any more than a splash, however, would be doing yourself a disservice.

Reviewed: May 2007